Mini Granny Square: Wade's Blanket CAL (Part 4)

Hello and welcome to Part 4 of the Wade's Blanket CAL, hosted by Zooty Owl and Kokopelli Design.

It is not too late to join this Crochet-A-Long!     The patterns will remain on our Blogs - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

INTRODUCTION 

PART 1 - CIRCLE IN SQUARE GRANNY

PART 2 - TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE

PART 3 - TALL STITCH DAISY SQUARE 

If you have any questions or comments, please contact Andrea or me via our blogs (in the comments section).   You can also find us on Facebook:   ZOOTY OWL and KOKOPELLI DESIGN

Please feel free to share your progress photos with Andrea and/or me on Facebook so that we can include your photos in our Gallery!!   (The past two weeks have been hectic here in Zootyland - I will attempt a little update post for the Gallery photos!!)

Today's pattern is:

MINI GRANNY SQUARE:  

PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN WEIGHT:   DK (8PLY / LIGHT WORSTED WEIGHT)
The amount of yarn required depends on the size of the blanket you would like to make. The one pictured in the photo is 110cm x 110cm - I used just over 600g (1800m) of yarn. A 150cm x 150cm would probably take 800g - 900g. 

For the 110cm x 110cm blanket I used 8 squares each of the first three 12cm x 12cm patterns and 16 squares of the 6cm x 6cm pattern (Part 4) 

HOOK SIZE:   5.00mm

SQUARE SIZE:    6cm x 6cm
Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. 

The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket - this will ensure that your squares will always be the correct size, for example if this square measures 14cm x 14cm then the next two patterns will also measure 14cm x 14cm (instead of my 12cm x 12cm) and the fourth one 7cm x 7cm (instead of my 6cm x 6cm).

Zooty Owl's Colourway:   Denim Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Lime, Bright Green, Lemon and White.

Start with a MAGIC RING
(alternatively crochet 3ch, sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle)


Row 1:   3ch (counts as 1dc),  11dc into ring (12dc);   sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to close round.   Do not turn work

Row 2:   [3ch (counts as 1dc),  (1dc, 2ch, 2dc) into same place as start 3ch (corner formed)];  [1dc into top of next two dc;  (2dc, 2ch, 2dc into next dc)] x3;   1dc into top of next 2dc;  sl st into 3rd of 3ch at start to close round.    Do not turn work

Row 3:   Join yarn in any 2ch corner space;  5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch),  3dc into same 2ch space;  [skip 2 spaces (3dc posts);   3dc into next space,  [3dc, 2ch, 3dc into corner 2ch);  skip 2 spaces, 3dc into next space] x3;   2dc into same place as start 5ch;   sl st into 3rd of 5ch at start to close round.   Break off yarn

Make twice as many of these squares as you made for Parts 1, 2 and 3.

I hope you are still having fun with this CAL!     Please join us again in two weeks for Part 5, where we will start making the stripes!

Tall Stitch Daisy Square: Wade's Blanket CAL (Part 3)

Hello and welcome to Part 3 of the Wade's Blanket CAL, hosted by Zooty Owl and Kokopelli Design.

It is not too late to join this Crochet-A-Long!     The patterns will remain on our Blogs - so you can crochet along at your own pace.      

Here are the links so far:

INTRODUCTION 

PART 1 - CIRCLE IN SQUARE GRANNY

PART 2 - TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE 

If you have any questions or comments, please contact Andrea or me via our blogs (in the comments section).   You can also find us on Facebook:   ZOOTY OWL and KOKOPELLI DESIGN

Please feel free to share your progress photos with Andrea and/or me on Facebook so that we can include your photos in our Gallery!!

Today's pattern is:

TALL STITCH DAISY SQUARE

PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN WEIGHT:   DK (8PLY / LIGHT WORSTED WEIGHT)
The amount of yarn required depends on the size of the blanket you would like to make. The one pictured in the photo is 110cm x 110cm - I used just over 600g (1800m) of yarn. A 150cm x 150cm would probably take 800g - 900g. 

For the 110cm x 110cm blanket I used 8 squares each of the first three 12cm x 12cm patterns and 16 squares of the 6cm x 6cm pattern (Part 4)

HOOK SIZE:   5.00mm

SQUARE SIZE:    12cm x 12cm
Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters.  The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket - this will ensure that your squares will always be the correct size, for example if this square measures 14cm x 14cm then the next two patterns will also measure 14cm x 14cm (instead of my 12cm x 12cm) and the fourth one 7cm x 7cm (instead of my 6cm x 6cm).

Zooty Owl's Colourway:   Denim Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Lime, Bright Green, Lemon and White.

Start with a MAGIC RING
(alternatively crochet 3ch, sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle) 

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into circle;  sl st into 3rd ch at start to close (12dc)

 
Row 2:  5ch (counts as 1dtrc) 1dtr in same space as join (2dtr grouping), 2ch;  [2dtr into top of dc  (2dtr grouping), 2ch] x11;   sl st into top of 5ch at start to close (24dtr)

Row 3:  Join yarn in 2ch space between any 2dtr grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same space as join;   3dc into next 2ch space;    (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into next 2ch space;   [(3dc into next 2ch space) x2;  (3tr, 3ch, 3tr) into next 2ch  space] x3;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;    turn work

Row 4:  3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into space between groupings;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;   [(3dc into next space) x3;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch)] x3;   (3dc into next space) x2;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   turn work

Row 5:  3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into space between groupings;  (3dc into next space) x2;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;   [(3dc into next space) x4;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch)] x3;   3dc into next space;   sl st into top of 3ch at start to close;   turn work

There you have it - The Tall Stitch Daisy Square!!    Make as the same number of these as you made for Parts 1 and 2.

Have fun making your squares and see you again in two weeks with Part 4 of Wade's Blanket.

Traditional Granny Square: Wade's Blanket CAL (Part 2)

Hello and welcome to Part 2 of the Wade's Blanket CAL, hosted by Zooty Owl and Kokopelli Design.

Sadly little Wade lost the battle with cancer.    Rest in peach with the Angels lovely golden haired boy!

It is not too late to join this Crochet-A-Long!     The patterns will remain on our Blogs - so you can crochet along at your own pace.

Here are the links so far:

INTRODUCTION 

PART 1 - CIRCLE IN SQUARE GRANNY

If you have any questions or comments, please contact Andrea or me via our blogs (in the comments section).   You can also find us on Facebook:   ZOOTY OWL and KOKOPELLI DESIGN 

I will be compiling a Gallery of YOUR progress for every post - so please feel free to share your photos with Andrea and/or me on Facebook!

Today's pattern is:

TRADITIONAL GRANNY SQUARE
(With a Twist)

PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN WEIGHT:   DK (8PLY / LIGHT WORSTED WEIGHT)  
The amount of yarn required depends on the size of the blanket you would like to make. The one pictured in the photo is 110cm x 110cm - I used just over 600g (1800m) of yarn. A 150cm x 150cm would probably take 800g - 900g. 

HOOK SIZE:   5.00mm

SQUARE SIZE:    12cm x 12cm
Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket - this will ensure that your squares will always be the correct size, for example if this square measures 14cm x 14cm then the next two patterns will also measure 14cm x 14cm (instead of my 12cm x 12cm) and the fourth one 7cm x 7cm (instead of my 6cm x 6cm).

Zooty Owl's Colourway:   Denim Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Lime, Bright Green, Lemon and White.

Start with a MAGIC RING;
alternatively crochet 3ch;   sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle

Row 1:   5ch (counts as 1dc, 2ch),  (3dc into ring, 2ch) x3;  2dc into ring;   sl st into 3rd of start 5ch to close.    Do not turn work

Row 2:   sl st into 2ch space;    3ch (counts as 1dc);  (2dc, 2ch, 3dc) into 2ch space;   (3dc, 2ch, 3dc into next 2ch space) x3;    sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn.  Turn work 

(Note: Andrea changed colors a round later, so she has three rounds white and three rounds in color, but do your own squares as you please.)
 
Row 3:   Working on the wrong side, join yarn in space after corner 3dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc ),   2dc into same space;   [(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into space between 3dc groups] x3;   ( 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close row.     Turn work

Your square should now look like this on the wrong side (the side you worked Round 3 on):

On the right side it should look like this. This is also the side you will be working Row 4 on:

Row 4:  Working on the right side 3ch (counts as 1dc ),   2dc into same space;  3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner;   [(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner] x3;   ( 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close row.    Break off yarn. Turn work.

Row 5:   Working on the wrong side, join yarn in space before corner 3dc;   3ch (counts as 1dc ),   2dc into same space;   [(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to next corner] x3;   ( 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to start 3dc group, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close row.     Turn work 

Row 6:  Working on the right side 3ch (counts as 1dc ),   2dc into same space;  3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner;   [(3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch;   3dc into each space between 3dc groups to corner] x3;   ( 3dc, 2ch, 3dc) into corner 2ch, sl st into 3rd of start 3ch to close row.     Break off yarn.

Granny squares are so much fun to make and are so versatile too.    Turning your work after every round ensures that your work does not "lean" towards one side.    This way you can just keep going and going and your granny square will remain perfectly square no matter how big you make it!

Have fun making your squares!

See you again in two weeks with Part 3 of Wade's Blanket.

Circle in a Square Granny: Wade's Blanket CAL (Part 1)

Hello and welcome to Part 1 of the Wade's Blanket CAL, hosted by Zooty Owl and Kokopelli Design!  

This blanket was made from scraps a while back with the patterns that we will be posting over the next few weeks: 

Today's pattern is:

CIRCLE IN A SQUARE GRANNY

PATTERN TERMS:    US

YARN WEIGHT:   DK (8PLY / LIGHT WORSTED WEIGHT)  

The amount of yarn required depends on the size of the blanket you would like to make. The one pictured in the photo is 110cm x 110cm - I used just over 600g (1800m) of yarn. A 150cm x 150cm would probably take 800g - 900g. 

HOOK SIZE:   5.00mm

SQUARE SIZE:    12cm x 12cm

Gauge is not too important with this blanket. Yarn thicknesses vary somewhat from brand to brand as do the tensions of individual crocheters. The most important thing is that your tension remains even throughout the blanket - this will ensure that your squares will always be the correct size, for example if this square measures 14cm x 14cm then the next two patterns will also measure 14cm x 14cm (instead of my 12cm x 12cm) and the fourth one 7cm x 7cm (instead of my 6cm x 6cm).

Zooty Owl's Colourway:   Denim Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Lime, Bright Green, Lemon and White.

My blanket will be 110cm x 110cm in size - so I made eight of these squares.

Andrea is making a larger blanket so she is making more squares!

Start with a MAGIC RING
(alternatively crochet 3ch, sl st into 3rd chain from hook to form a circle)

Row 1:  3ch (counts as 1dc);  11 dc into the magic ring;  sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch to close round (12dc);    Pull the beginning tail to tighten the ring

Row 2:  sl st into first space between dc; 3ch (counts as 1dc) 1dc in same space as join (2dc grouping);  [2dc into each sp between dc on the previous round (2dc grouping)] x11;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch  to close round (24dc)

Row 3:  Sl st to centre of 2dc grouping;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into the centre of the 2dc grouping;  [3dc into centre of next 2dc grouping (3dc grouping)] x 11;  sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch  to close round (36dc).   Break off yarn.

Row 4:   Join yarn in space between any 3dc groupings;  3ch (counts as 1dc), 2dc into same space as join;   3dc into next space;    (3trc, 3ch, 3trc) into next space (corner made);   [(3dc into next space) x2;  (3trc, 3ch, 3trc) into next space] x3;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch  to close round.

Row 5:  Before you start Round 5, turn your work, so you're facing the wrong side;  3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into space between 3dc groupings;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;   [(3dc into next space) x3;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch)] x3;   (3dc into next space) x2;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch  to close round;   turn work.   

Now your square should look like this from the wrong side:

 

Row 6:  Before you start Round 6, turn your work again, so you're facing the right side;  3ch (counts as 1dc) 2dc into space between groupings;  (3dc into next space) x2;  (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch;   [(3dc into next space) x4;   (3dc, 3ch, 3dc) into corner 3ch)] x3;   3dc into next space;   sl st into 3rd of beginning 3ch  to close round.    Break off yarn.

Use your favourite joining method to join your squares in a row - I am using my VISIBLE JOIN to join mine!

Have fun making your squares and see you again in two weeks with Part 2 of Wade's Blanket.

Wade's Blanket CAL: Introduction

Wade's Blanket CAL, hosted by Zooty Owl and Kokopelli Design. I am delighted to present my third blanket CAL (crochet-a-long)to you. The multi-talented Andrea of Kokopelli Design will be hosting this CAL with me!!

Here are some details to get you started:

Why are we calling it "Wade's Blanket CAL"?

Wade is a very brave little boy who is undergoing chemo at the moment.   While we were planning the CAL I told Andrea that I want to make Wade a blanket for comfort.   So we decided to name this blanket "Wade's Blanket".

The CAL will be over 16 weeks and we will post a pattern and a photo tutorial on both blogs every two weeks on Friday, starting March 20th.

There will be four square patterns, three stripe patterns, and a border. By the end of the CAL you will have a beautiful blanket in the size you want (depending on how many squares you make and how wide you make the stripes).

I made this one a while back using oddments of colour left over from other projects:

The patterns are written for DK (8ply / light worsted) weight yarns and a 5.00mm hook.  You can make the blanket from an assortment of different colours, or you can choose a specific colour palette - whatever you like!!

I will be using Elle Pullskein DK (100% Acrylic yarn) from our South African Mill, Saprotex and have chosen colours which are available in most acrylic yarns - Denim Blue, Blue, Turquoise, Lime, Bright Green, Lemon and White.

Andrea has chosen Stylecraft Special DK in a "Peacock" palette:

If you need a few ideas to help you choose your palette BE INSPIRED BY COLOUR!
Andrea and I look forward to having very many of you join us for this CAL on 20 March 2015

13 Granny Squares Bag: Pattern

I have made so many of these 13 Granny Squares Bags - they are just so quick and easy to make!

This is what you will need:

13 Granny Squares of your choosing -  a 12cm x 12cm (about 6 rounds) gives you a fairly convenient size bag - for this particular bag I used my EIGHT PETAL GRANNY SQUARE PATTERN - with 1 extra round of DC
Yarn to work them together - I prefer to either single crochet them together on the right side or use my VISIBLE JOIN

About 25g of yarn for finishing and the handle.

I find that a granny square made with DK (in whatever blend you like),  using a 3.50mm to 4.00mm hook gives a nice soft but sturdy fabric

Arrange your squares as follows:

NOTE:   Squares 3 and 5 coloured in green are represented on both sides of the pattern (2 squares only - not four) I have represented them this way because these two squares fold in half, and are worked into both the front and back of the bag.   Once you have joined your squares as the diagramn indicates fold along the bottom of square eight.   Fold squares 3 and 5 over and join.     Join the side f 1 to 12 and the side of 2 to 13

Crochet two rows of sc aound the opening (doing a 3sc tog over the "v").

 I only made one strap (handle):
Foundation Row:   ch 120, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each chain to end, 1ch then turn
Rows 2 - 6:  1sc into top of each sc from the previous row
Fold over and then work  Row 7, sc into top of sc on previous row and through corresponding start chain (so you will form a "tube")
Centre the handle over the joins for squares 1 and 12;  2 and 13 - sew in

The bow embellishment (optional) is made as follows:

Piece A:  
Foundation Row:   13ch, sc into 2nd ch from hook. sc into each chain to end
Rows 2 -5;  1sc into top of each sc from the previous row

Piece B: 
Foundation Row:  8ch, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each ch to end
Row 2:  1sc into top of each sc from the previous row

Fold Piece B over Centre of Piece A and secure tightly to form a bow.

Granny Square Bag: Hearts & Rainbows

The story of a little granny square bag....

One afternoon last week hubby and I had to run a few errands along the "not-so-scenic-route".   Not wanting to be bored during the drive I grabbed my RAINBOW SQUARES on the way out.  There were only ten squares left after I had used the greens, blues and violets in another project.

I Managed to make each square 2 rows bigger during the drive and when I got home I just knew what I wanted to make.

So I quickly laid out the squares:

Joined them together with sc in lime green as per my diagram:

Brought the side squares around and worked them onto the top square and bottom half square.    Then I joined the sides of the front top squares to the sides of the back top squares.

Crochet two rows of sc aound the opening (doing a 3sc tog over the "v").

Made an edging row as follows:  *2ch, 1dc (into the top of any sc) skip one sc, ss into top of next sc* rep *to* all around opening;  ss into top of 2nd chain to close.    End off

As the bag is quite small I only made one strap (handle):
Foundation Row:   ch 110, sc into 2nd ch from hook, sc into each chain to end, 1sc then turn
Rows 2 - 4:  1sc into top of each sc from the previous row
Fold over and then work  Row 5, sc into top of sc on previous row and through corresponding start chain (so you will form a "tube")

Sewed the strap  in over the side join on the inside of the bag. 

And then embellish to your heart's content:

Photo taken indoors!

And this one taken outdoors!

Enjoy!!!!

The Shabby Project Bag

I have made quite a few of these Shabby Project Bags (HERE)

Did not think that these would be quite so popular, but I have had numerous requests for a pattern.   

I used good old acrylic yarn  - DK in various brands (adds to the "shabbiness") and in order to make this a super lazy, super shabby project I knotted all my scraps together using a double knot (something my gran taught me) - gives you a "homegrown" variegated look

I  had no idea what the knot was called so I just googled 'knotting yarn together" and I discovered it is called a MAGIC KNOT.   I don't really like using this to join new yarn if it is an item I am giving as a gift or selling - but hey!    since I am making these for myself!!

Anyhow gather all your scraps, arrange them in a colour order that is pleasing to you, knot them together and roll them up into one big ball.     (I think about 150g should do it)

Grab whatever hook you normally use for DK (for this project I used a 5.00mm hook as the looser stitch adds to the shabby look) and lets get hooking!

The Shabby Project Bag

SIZE:    Small
BASE DIAMETER:  27cm
HEIGHT:   24 cm

This size is great for  toting around smaller on-the-go projects like granny squares and scarves.

Base / Bottom
Worked on the right side:

Ch 4, ss to join

Round 1: 3ch, 11 dc, ss to join

Round 2:  3ch 1dc into sp between dc; *2dc into sp between dc* rep *to* 11 times = 24dc

Round 3: 3ch. 1dc into sp between 2dc, 1dc into next sp *2dc into next sp between 2dc, 1dc into next sp* Rep *to* 11 times = 36dc

Round 4:  3ch, 1dc into sp between 2dc, 1dc into each of next 2 spaces *2dc into next sp between 2dc, 1 dc into each of next 2 spaces between dc* rep *to* 11 times

Round 5 - 10:  For each subsequent round continue to do 2dc into the space between the 2dc of the previous row and one dc into each of the spaces between single dc (on each row you will have 1 more stitch between 2dc's that on the previous row).    This means that every row increases by 12 stitches - thus keeping the work flat for the base of the bag.

For this bag I have done 10 base rows - ending with a total of 120 dc (pretty easy calculation to get your dc number - row number x 12).

To make the bag bigger just add extra base rows and a few more side rows so that the bag does not look out of proportion.

Sides
Still working on the right side

Round 11:  3ch, 1dc into the top of each dc of previous row, ss into top of 3ch.(crocheting into the top of each dc gives a neater finish and it is easier to keep track of the stitches - but if you want a shabbier look crochet into the space between dc, as I did on the bags I made earlier)

Round 12 - 20:    Repeat round 11

Round 21:  3ch *2dc together, 1dc into each of next 8 dc* Repeat *to* 11 times;  2dc together, 1dc into each of next 7dc;    ss into 3ch to join (12 decreases)

Round 22:   3ch *2dc together, 1dc into each of next 7dc*  Repeat *to* 11 times. 2dc together, 1dc into each of next 6dc;  ss into 3ch to join (12 decreases) - you will be left with 96 stitches.   Break off yarn

Note:   This narrows the opening of the bag ever so slightly - I prefer it that way.    If you prefer a wider opening repeat round 11 for Rounds 21 - 22.

Edging: 
Here I switch to a smaller hook (4.00mm)
I also prefer to use a single colour for my edging
Join yarn in same place as joining ss of previous round
*3ch, 2dc, skip 1dc, ss into next dc* repeat * to * end making a slip stitch into the base of the first 3ch on the final repeat.   Break off yarn.

Handles:
Here I use a single colour per row so the handles are quite "neat" in contrast.
Make 2 as follows
With the 4.00mm hook chain 121
Row 1:  sc into second ch from hook and into every ch thereafter
Rows 2 - 5: 1ch, sc into every sc on previous row
Break off yarn

 
The join on every row is a bit obvious since we are using odd yarn.      Fold the bag so that the join runs where you would like to position your flowers, as this is the line we are going to use as a placement guide.

Position the handles and sew them in.    I position mine 12 dc in from the sides and 2rows below the edging.

I am going to share with you the first flower my gran taught me to make - a chain loop daisy!    (I remember making hundreds of them after she showed me - that was all I made for days!!)

CHAIN LOOP DAISY

Two colours are used here

Centre:
ch 4, ss to join
3ch, 11 dc into ring, ss to join 

Petals:
Join second colour in sp between any 2 dc.
*12ch, ss into same sp, ss into sp between next 2dc* rep to

You will need 6 to cover the join line. 

Tidy up the ends on the daisies but leave one long tail to sew them onto the bag.   Position them  and pin them into place before you start sewing them down:

I start sewing in from the top to the bottom - less risk of puncturing your hand!

And that is it!!     Ready to use!!

Enjoy!!!